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Their concerts repeatedly faced difficulties with organizers and authorities, and public appearances often ended in mayhem.

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Mc Laren had been talking with the New York Dolls' Sylvain Sylvain about coming over to England to front the group. He had his 'I Hate Pink Floyd' T-shirt on, and it was held together with safety pins.

The Mc Laren–Westwood shop had opened in 1971 as Let It Rock, with a 1950s revival Teddy Boy theme.

It had been renamed in 1972 to focus on another revival trend, the rocker look associated with Marlon Brando.

Jones was improving rapidly, however, and the band's developing sound had no room for the technical lead work at which New was adept. Mc Laren later said the name derived "from the idea of a pistol, a pin-up, a young thing, a better-looking assassin".

Not given to modesty, false or otherwise, he added: "[I] launched the idea in the form of a band of kids who could be perceived as being bad." The group began writing original material: Rotten was the lyricist and Matlock the primary melody writer (though their first collaboration, "Pretty Vacant", had a complete lyric by Matlock, which Rotten tweaked a bit); official credit was shared equally among the four.

Before his departure, Mc Laren and Westwood had conceived a new identity for their shop: renamed Sex, it changed its focus from retro couture to S&M-inspired "anti-fashion", with a billing as "Specialists in rubberwear, glamourwear & stagewear".

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